Labels and Perceptions

In the duty-free store on the way home from Argentina, I bought a Johnnie Walker sampler pack, a 200ml bottle each (in ascending order of price) of Black, Green, Gold, and Blue. Having never had any JW except Red (which was quite bad), I thought it would be a relatively inexpensive way to try them all.

I had always heard that Johnnie Walker Blue was one of the finest whiskies in the world. At $200 a bottle, I would certainly expect it to be. When I started sampling my purchases, I agreed that the quality went up as the price went up. Then I asked S for a little help.

She poured a couple of sips of each into their own glasses, and labeled them A thru D. A simple blind taste test. The first time, Black was the only one I got correct, and I tagged what was really the Blue as Green. I picked the Gold as the Blue. A few days later, I tried again, and got none of them correct, but I again tagged the Gold as the Blue.

As I had assumed the one I liked the most would be the Blue, one thing I learned from my experiment is that my favorite of the Johnnie Walker’s is Gold. I also learned that I really do not have a very refined palate when it comes to scotch. The third, and most important thing I learned, is that labels influence my thought process. When I knew what I was drinking, I thought Blue was the best. When I didn’t know, I couldn’t pick the Blue to save my life, and actually preferred Gold.

What does this have to do with anything? I was at the Guggenheim today, and all of the Johnnie Walker experimentation came rushing back to me. In an effort to achieve #41 – Develop an appreciation of visual arts, I decided to spend my day off at a museum. As most other museums in New York are closed on Monday, I went to the Guggenheim. The first thing I learned was that I am not quite ready to appreciate 20th century art. The second, and most important thing I learned was that, in everything, people pay attention to the labels.

I was standing in front of a Picasso, I don’t recall which one, when a couple walked up next to me. The man, after looking at the placard, said, “Oooh, look, a Picasso.” The woman replied, very promptly, “Wow, I really like it! I love the colors!”

I don’t mean to imply that the couple couldn’t have appreciated the finer details of the work in the few seconds they looked at it before rendering a judgement, but I wonder if their reaction would have been the same if the artist had a name that was unknown to them.

I paid attention to my own browsing habits, and noticed that the first thing I did was look at the placard to see the artist’s name. If it was a name I recognized, I seemed to pay more attention to the work. As I wound my way up the spiral, I tried always to look at the work first, then look at its placard. Unfortunately, by this time, I had left the galleries that made sense to me and had wandered up to Rothko and Kandinsky, so whether I knew the artist or not, I was still lost.

Walking into the rainy afternoon, I took two lessons with me: pay less attention to the labels and more attention to what is being labeled; and I really need to start back at the beginning of art history and work my way up to the last century.

Label Maintenance

I just did some label consolidation, as I realized that my original plan of having a label for each of the 81 items on my list will soon become unwieldy. So, I have reduced the total number to 12.

Though all 12 have not yet been posted to, as time goes by, all will reveal themselves. I also hope to have the list itself published with linked articles, but, until I can customize my blog to match the style of the rest of my site, that will have to wait.

Twenty-two Birds

On Sunday, I finished up the bird list Alec sent me, and I added a total of 22 birds to my lifelist. On the road to achieving #37 – 500 birds on my lifelist, this puts me at an unusually round 300.

While that sounds impressive, nearly half were added from my two trips with Alec in South America. Granted, Argentina alone has more species than all of North America, which is a huge reason birding in South America was on this list. But, still, I feel a little cheap that two days can get me nearly a third of my entire goal. Maybe I’ll have to up the number to 750.

Back in the States

We are now in the RCC at Dulles, after a painless (except for the food) flight from Ezeiza. Customs/immigration was a breeze, especially compared to October, when security and customs were in two different teminals. They seem to have learned from that, and now security is directly after customs.

A long walk from gate C5 to D8, and we now have just one leg to go.

If you happen to be reading this now, on 06Jul07, you might check back in a few days after I’ve posted some pictures back into these posts. I know that blogging etiquette demands that posts not be changed after they’re posted, but I don’t particularly care. Since nobody reads this anyway, I don’t think I’ll be taken before the Blogging Board of Inquiry anytime soon.

BA Accident

Am now sitting in the Red Carpet Club at Ezeiza, one checkpoint away from boarding. Though I said that my next post would be stateside, they have free wi-fi here so I thought I’d make one last post.

On the way here, we were picked up by Chrisitan from the apartment, and not 1 mile from the apartment, he rear-ended someone. The reaction of the other driver? He waved in his rearview mirror, saying “It’s OK.” I cannot imagine that happening anywhere in the US.

At any rate, they just called us for boarding, so Chau, Buenos Aires!

BA, Last Day

Today is our last day in Buenos Aires. Our flight leaves at 900pm, and while I am sad to leave, I am ready to be back home, mostly so I can see Beezus (my dog).

Again slept a little late, then back to La Cupertina for lunch, for one last empanada, and to try the chivitos. A chivito is a sandwich with steak, ham, cheese, lettuce, tomato, and a fried egg. My co-worker, who is from Uruguay, told me I should seek one of these out, and I am glad we did. Apparently the name means “little goat” because you feel like you’ve eaten a little goat when you’re done. We knew this up front, so we split 2 among us.

We got our first taste of bad service, when the woman asked us for our order while we were still looking at the menus, and gave an exasperated sigh when we asked for un momento, por favor. She ignored us for another twenty minutes and when we paid the bill, she virtually threw the change at us. I suppose this is to be expected, as Palermo Viejo fills with American expats and tourists, and I would imagine we are an incredibly frustrating group of people.

Also saw my first car accident here, and am actually a little stunned it was only the first one. As I’ve mentioned, traffic here is quite dangerous, and drivers have a loose relationship with traffic laws (not unlike New York). Posted all over the city are flyers warning Porteños to slow down, and most of the travel advisories I read said the traffic is the most dangerous thing about BA.

We have one last drive, to Ezeiza, and then hopefully we’ll be on our way back. I’m going to badly miss this city, its wonderful people, and its incredibly relaxed atmosphere. But, we all have to earn a living, and we haven’t figured out a way to do it here. Yet.

Next post, we will be stateside (hopefully).

The Extra Day

We took full advantage of our extra day by sleeping past 10. Then, we slowly got ready, grabbed some media lunas and coffee from Sweetly, and headed down to Retiro.

S had read about a place called Carpincho in the Times, so we thought this might be a good time to get our winter gloves. A carpincho is what we call a capybara, and its hide is known to be some of the toughest in the world. We opted for kid gloves (literally) instead, lined with nutria fur. (I’m still not completely sure what nutria is here. Some claim that it is otter, while others say it is what we would also call nutria, which is a beaver-sized rodent living in wetlands of the western hemisphere. I’m inclined to believe the latter, but no matter.) It is some of the softest fur I have ever touched, and I am a little bummed that I won’t get to wear them again for 4 or 5 months.

Walked to Al Carbon for lunch, which was pretty good. It’s one of those places with lots of blonde wood and low lighting where businessmen always seem to congregate, similar in every big city in the world, regardless of the food quality. In this case, my milanesitas were decent, and the salmon S ordered was outstanding.

Though we knew about some road construction on Esmerelda, we hopped in a cab to get back to the apartment. So far, it was the most expensive cab ride, more even than the trips to/from La Boca, and one of the more harrowing in BA. It seems that Porteños use the lanes painted on the asphalt more as suggestions, and this guy wasn’t listening. I don’t think we were fully in one lane the entire trip.

Naps, media lunas, and some downtime later, we head to La Brigada for our last dinner. We went specifically here because they serve the tapa de ojo de bife, which is basically pure deckle, and wonderfully delicious. Unfortunately, they were out tonight. Dinner was still excellent, and we got home at a relatively early 1130pm.

Another Day

Dinner at Parilla 1880 last night was great. The steaks were impeccable (ojo de bife and bife de lomo), and we tried the chorizo and the chinchulines. None of us were thrilled with the chinchulines, and so far that is the only dish we’ve tried that we didn’t like.

Our server was a bit gruff, but once S charmed him with one of her phrases (“Please excuse our bad spanish”), he was very friendly. In fact, he reacted the way most Porteños do, which is to ask us for forgiveness that they don’t speak english. In their country. Where english isn’t even close to the lingua franca.

Our most expensive cab ride (around US$5) returned us to the apartment, where we began planning for our extra day in BA. Some phone calls back to the states and the rental agency to secure our extended stay, and then to bed.

Napolitana, Finally

In October when we were here last, I wanted to try what is reported to be the best milanese napolitana in Buenos Aires. We went to The Place with No Name on Honduras (I suspect it’s called Bar de Gallegos, though I cannot be sure) on our last day for lunch before the flight. I placed the order, but soonafter, our server returned to tell me that they had just served the last milanese. I was utterly heartbroken.

I made it a mission to go this time, earlier in the day so I could be sure they wouldn’t run out. We arrived this morning around 11am, only to be told that lunch didn’t start until noon. We walked around Palermo Viejo for an hour and then went back to PWNN.

In case you don’t know what a milanese napolitana is, it is close to a chicken fried steak. A breaded steak, topped with ham, cheese, tomato sauce, and green herbs (or peas, in some cases), it is a wonderful indulgence. PWNN was, in fact, the best I have had. About a foot wide and an inch thick, it shames most chicken fried steak, or anything called a steak in the US. We split two orders between the three of us, and were stuffed.

Walked around Palermo a little more, then for our 3pm snack, went to La Cupertina for empanadas and alfajores. The alfajores at these little bakeries are sooo much better than the pre-packaged ones you can buy at stores or Havana, I think because the good ones are so crumbly that they wouldn’t make it through mass production in one piece. We never tried the local ones when we were here in October, and now we understand the obsession.

Got back to the apartment, took some naps, and then S called United and changed our flights. So now, we are leaving a day later, and making up for the day we lost on the front end of this trip. We are celebrating by heading to Parilla 1880 for dinner tonight.

Contrasts

Last night, we had a wonderful dinner around the corner at La Brigada. Genuine old world service, in a fairly empty restaurant (Sunday is asado day in BA, when everyone grills at home). S and I ate here in October, and we both liked it, but were both so exhausted we forgot how great it is. We almost didn’t go because we thought it was one of those places we were glad we tried, but didn’t need to return. We decided that this is the best place to go on on a Sunday after I return from birding with Alec, whenever we come to BA.

We woke up late this morning, around 9am, because we all desperately needed sleep. I grabbed some media lunas from the corner bakery, and then we headed out towards Plaza de Mayo to see the sights. Didn’t see many, because we stopped for lunch at Café Tortoni. S and I had the lomo especial, and A had the lomo with eggs and bacon. Tortoni is apparently the oldest café in BA, and is a cavernous, high-ceilinged place, filled with towering columns and pictures of old opera, tango, and movie stars. Lunch was delicious.

Then it was time to venture back down Florida Street. I really hate places like this, because they are filled with tourists, and locals trying to separate these tourists from their money. But, in March, I finally got rid of my last winter overcoat, and knew I would need another come November. I had tried on a very nice lambskin, fur-lined coat at Orix when S bought her jacket there on Saturday, and decided I would buy my winter coat here.

Mabel remebered us and took me directly to the coat I had tried on earlier, but I didn’t like it as much as I remembered. She went into the back and brought out a different coat that I liked much better, so I bought it. As much as I hate talking about how the dollar is so strong against the peso, I am still stunned that the coat was only US$260. (Only since I paid in cash. Had I charged it, it would have been over 300.)

Stopped by Uru to pick up A’s new jacket, then into Recoleta Cemetery for an hour or so to see the cats and the mausoleums. Home again, and A and I went to Sweetly (the corner bakery/coffee shop) for media lunas, alfajores, and coffee while S took a nap. We went back home, took a nap, and then went to Palermo for dinner at La Cabrera.

The steaks were, of course fantastic, and the cubiertos were the best we’ve had yet. Overall a great meal, but in Palermo, I noticed something quite troubling.

Palermo is the new hot neighborhood in BA, and the place where all the hip foreign tourists come. There were more non-Porteños there than in any restaurant we had yet visited. Outside, there was a man standing in the intersection with a rag waiting to wash windshields, and while I was having a cigarette, a little girl of about 7 approached me and starting speaking to me in Spanish. When it was clear that I didn’t speak castellano, she just looked at me and said, “muh-nee!”

The contrast between the rich foreigners looking for a good place to party and the locals trying to scrape by was distressing, especially because I was one of those good-time-Charlie foreigners. I know that BA, and especially Palermo, is the hot new world destination for ex-pats, much like Paris in the 30s and Prague in the 90s. I greatly appreciate that I am fortunate enough to be able to be here.

I’m not sure what I’m getting at, but I guess tonight made me a little more forgiving of the people who squirted mustard on us. The resentment the less fortunate must hold for people like me is far more than I can conceive.