Dia Mixta

Day 2 was one of those days. First, we went to Coto, a supermarket and got some essentials (toilet paper, coke, beer) then took a cab to Cabaña las Lilas.

Las Lilas is one of those places that people either love or hate. It is considered one of the 2 best steakhouses in BA, and because of that, there are a lot of tourists. However, it also is really damn good. I think people who hate it, hate the fact that that it isn’t a local parillado, and think that spending 2 or 3 times what you would at a local is ridiculous. It’s worth every peso.

A, who doesn’t care for filet mignon all that much, said the lomo was the best she has ever had. But the real centerpiece of our meal was the centallo, patagonian spider crab. Unfortunately, S is allergic to shellfish, so it was all for A and me. It was the best crab I’ve ever eaten, and combined with some of the best steak in the world, made for the best surf and turf I can possibly imagine.

After the meal, which I would put in my all time top ten, we decided to walk to Florida street so S could look for leather jackets. I should mention that I had read some of the stories about tourists getting their pockets picked in BA, so I thought I was prepared for the standard scams. Just after crossing a major avenue, S was stopped by a couple walking up behind her and telling her a bird had pooped on her. When she turned around there was some nasty green slop on her back and in her hair. A started wiping it off, with Kleenex provided by the “helpful” couple, and remarked that it smelled like mustard.

This was when I remembered the stories. I started to back away when the man told me I had some on my jacket, conveniently right above the pocket with my wallet in it. I then noticed A had some on her, and the woman started helping her. I immediately backed against the wall to protect my wallet, looked at the Sisters and said “watch your bags!” Then the man directed me away from S and had me help A, who, starting to understand, covered her bag. I was watching the woman help S, and repeated my warning to her and tried to quickly get away from the situation. When the couple finally walked away, I told the Sisters to check their bags for everything valuable. Fortunately, they got nothing.

Unfortunately, we were all covered in green mustard. We stopped at a kiosco and got some agua con gas, and cleaned ourselves up. Then we headed to Florida street, where S found the coat she was looking for, and we returned to the apartment without incident.

We finished the day with a great Korean dinner, and most of the bad part of the day was forgotten. This mustard squirt is a really common scam, apparently, and I feel a little foolish for initially falling for it. Though I still have a bad taste in my mouth, I know we were very lucky if mustard stains are the only scars we take home.

Buenos Aires II, Day 1

The Sisters and I hopped in a cab (made A call the dispatcher, so she could experience a phone call in Spanish) to Palermo and had a delightful lunch at Bar Uriarte. Our first steak was an ojo de bife (rib eye), accompanied by zucchini fritters, provoleta (grilled mozarella), and bruschetta. We followed with a dulce de leche crème brulee, split 3 ways.

Took a cab back to Recoleta, where A got sized for a custom leather jacket (they were a little dismayed by the fact that she wanted one that had a man’s cut), S got a quilted pigskin coat, and I bought a silk scarf.

It is colder here than we expected. We understood that it is winter, but weren’t quite anticipating the need for heavier coats and scarves. Porteños are bundled up as though it is January in New York, which, after living in California for 5 years, I completely understand.

We returned to the apartment for naps and evening snacks, then walked down the street to Campo Chico. A had her first bife de chorizo and her first bife de lomo, and reacted much in the same way we did after our first. There is nothing like Argentine beef.

Tomorrow, we’re having our one fancy meal, lunch at Cabaña las Lilas. I expect that will absolutely blow A’s mind.

Spoke with Alec, and we are going birding in Otamendi on Sunday. He’ll pick me up at 7am, in time to make the 8 o’clock sunrise over the Pampas.

We Made It

After a nail-biting moment in Dulles, when the anticipated storm finally arrived, our pilot decided to take advantage of his priority status with the control tower. We turned onto the runway at 1015pm, and took off in dumping rain.

After what seemed to be a very brief 11 hour flight and the shortest customs and immigration lines I’ve ever seen, we were met at the airport by Alejandro, who took us to our apartment in Recoleta. After showers and media lunas (to stave off our all-consuming hunger), the Sisters and I are off to Bar Uriarte for lunch.

Sipping Champagne

I am sitting in my business class seat, sipping champagne. Wheels are not up, and they say there is a storm rolling in, but we have priority on the runway. If I don’t post in the next few hours, I am somewhere above the western hemisphere.

Inside Security

We’ve made it through security, with our boarding passes in hand. Now just sitting in the Red Carpet Club, waiting for our flight to board.

So, I’m pretty sure we’re at least getting on the plane. But, until we’re wheels up, I can’t believe we’ll be having lomo tomorrow.

Dulles

We made it to Dulles. Now we wait. Flight leaves in 5 hours, and we can’t check in until 4 hours before the flight, so an hour to sit around and do nothing.

At least we’re finally at Dulles.

Routearound

Last night before we even got on the standby flight (upon which we were stranded for 5 hours, and ultimately returned to the gate) S arranged for us to get confirmed on today’s 530 to Dulles. Which has just been cancelled.

Fortunately, I’m somewhere in Pennsylvania, heading to Washington. Due to get in around 3, which gives us 6 hours to get to Dulles and catch today’s flight to Buenos Aires.

Let's Try This Again

Back at home, and after a few hours of sleep, we’re ready to try again. But not out of LaGuardia. Instead, we’re getting on a train to Washington, then a cab to Dulles.

Since there are more thunderstorms due in the New York area this evening, we decided to get to Dulles and eliminate one airport from the equation. Hopefully, the flight to Ezeiza will take off just like it did last night, but this time with us on it.

Delays

Seriously, there has to be a better way.

Weve been stuck on the tarmac at LaGuardia for 3 hours due to weather. Missed the connecting flight at Dulles, and if we manage to get to Dulles tonight, have nowhere to stay until the next flight leaves at 9pm tomorrow night. Now not even sure if we’ll make it out tomorrow, if we don’t make it out of New York tonight. More thunderstorms expected tomorrow.

So, seriously, there has to be a better way. Everybody flies to get anywhere, and the entire world is dependent on air travel. Yet, we are still flying into and out of airports built for 1960s air traffic, on airlines still using business models based on 1960s assumptions.

I’m cranky, hungry, and frankly sick and tired of the state of air travel in this country. And I’m still on the fucking tarmac.

Vacation

We are leaving in a few hours for Buenos Aires. We’ll be gone for 9 days, during which time I hope to post at least a few times. Not sure what our Internet access situation will be, so that hope may be optimistic.

And, in case the oddsmakers are curious, the final books selected for the journey are Book of Air and Shadows and The Lady in the Lake. I have absolutely no idea what the first one is about, which was part of the appeal. I have read Michael Gruber before, and saw his latest recommended by Salon. Didn’t read the Salon article, didn’t even read the copy on the dustjacket. Just going to open it, start reading, and let Gruber take me wherever he’s going.